Cylinder Heads

By way of background - when the motor was rebuild I had the head nuts and bolts on order. This arrived after I got the rebuild motor back. Consequently Doepie only put two of the head nuts on. I've fitted the nuts just hand tight when I received the package. But they were not properly fastened. 

OK.  Here goes.  First off is the seat T-bar. 

Then the dashboard cover.

And the two tanks. 

Then the top engine mounting bracket,with all of the cylinder head nuts and washers (they were just tightened by hand). This was followed by lifting the cylinder head from the studs. 

This is what Palmer has to say about the Side Valve (SV) iron head installation. 

I then applied the copper gasket sealer to both sides of the copper gasket. 

And put the copper gasket back in place. 

The iron cylinder head was then placed on the cylinder. 

This was followed by placing all 8 head washers in position. 

The cylinder head nuts were then placed in position and hand tightened (except for the upper engine mounting bracket nut, as the front cylinder head must be in position before the bracket can be placed in position and tightened).

The front cylinder head was also removed and the gasket sprayed with the gasket sealant. 

The front cylinder head went back on. 

The washers went on, as well as, the carburettor control bracket and the top engine mounting bracket. 

All the remaining cylinder head nuts were placed into position and hand tightened. 

I then gradually started to tighten the head bolts - two clicks at a time in a criss cross pattern. 

All the cylinder head nuts have now been tightened until the torque wrench clicks. The torque wrench was set to click at 40 ft-lbs of torque. 

Job number 1 on the To-Do list completed.